Days 6-7: Niamey, Niger

We had planned driving from Gao, Mali to Niamey, Niger months ago  My brother purchased his return ticket to the States from Niamey so we had a limited amount of time to make it there by Saturday, January 10th.  For months, I researched the road extensively online through people’s blogs and in person, inquiring about its safety.  What I found was that it is, physically, extremely safe.  It had just been paved a year ago and the trip, without stops, should only take 4 hours.  However,  just  weeks before we were to drive that road, a Canadian diplomat’s car was hijacked and he  kidnapped by Tuareg rebels on the same road.   In addition, there were heightened security alerts the embassy had been sending out since December regarding random grenade attacks in Gao.  Needless to say, I was worried.

After a team meeting, it was decided we would take the road anyway (instead of going through Burkina Faso).  From what we could decipher, tourists were not being targeted by Tuaregs…. rather it was military officials or diplomats that worked with Tuareg conflict resolution.  We took our chances and  fortunately,  got to Niamey (the capital of Niger) unscathed, albeit it took us 8 hours instead of the estimated 4.  Upon arrival, however, I thanked God for delivering us there safely.

Niamey was lovely.  Although still West African in ambiance (hustle and bustle, hundreds of scents, poverty, etc), it was much more maneagable and calm.  We saw several gorgeous sunsets on the banks of the Niger River and galloped with wild giraffes just an hour outside town.  It was sad to see my brother go, as it symbolized the end of one journey, but my boyfriend and I still had a week ahead of us in Benin.  A week that would result in one of the biggest surprises of my life!

Regarding safety on the Gao-Niamey road, it came to my attention this week, that four European tourists were kidnapped just a couple of weeks after we were there! Believe me, the news knocked the wind out of me.  I would like to pay it forward and inform all those planning on traveling this road to take the Burkina Faso road instead.  Although I found the road safe and the military personnel at the checkpoints very friendly, the stretches between villages were vast and long without seeing another car in sight. So be careful and if you can, go through Burkina instead.

Without further ado, some pictures of Niamey, Niger.

Getting close to the giraffes

Peek-a-boo

Sunset in Niamey

Pole Position Bamako…aka The Driving Test

They sure do throw you in deep water here.

I was under the impression that I was going to be driven around the city before I took the test, to familiarize myself with the neighborhoods and traffic. So I was a little surprised when upon meeting my instructor, he handed me the keys to a very large SUV and said, “Drive.”

I was initially pleased with myself that driving a stick shift came back as naturally as riding a bike, give or take a few jolting starts. However within a minute, I was crossing a major intersection that looked like a mosh pit: cars, motos, donkey carts, kids, goats, you name it! I kept on stopping abruptly for every soul while my instructor was shouting urgently and frantically motioning with his hands “Go, Go, GO!” (This scene repeated itself about 8 more times during the test). But every time I stepped on the gas, something and someone appeared in front of me! With my shoulders hunched over, my left leg pushing on the clutch so hard that I think I have an abnormally sized calf, and my high pitched squeals echoing afar, I finally made my way through, followed by his laughter.

While driving, motos were constantly weaving between lanes, between cars, so you literally have to ride on someone’s tail in order to move ahead. If you ever allow more than a foot between you and the car in front, you immediately lose your place in that lane, as hundreds of motos come storming in like rapids causing you to wait indefinitely before you can move again (to the hoot of a dozen horns).

I believe there were three times my instructor shouted “Attention!” at the top of his lungs; twice after I nearly caused 2 accidents to happen and once when I might have scraped the shirt of a motorist, as I was turning.

As we were returning to the office on the bridge that crosses the Niger River, traffic came to a standstill and people jumped out of their cars to investigate a spectacle that just happened. I ask, C’est Quoi?” What is it?, and without further ado my instructor jumps out of the car to check it out, leaving me to fend off the slow traffic on a bridge by myself where I managed to sneak in a short video snippet (as seen below).

From what I understand, someone fell/jumped in the river.

Despite all this, when we made it back to the office my instructor smiled and exclaimed, “Vraiment, tres bien Kash!” Really, very good job Kash!

I’m am however considering buying a helmet to wear in the car. Is that weird?