Day 4: Sevare, Mali

By Day 4, I felt the boys needed a little bit of R&R before we headed to Timbuktu for the second half of our journey.  So we slept in, caught up on email, greeted my colleagues at the office, went swimming at the nearby hotel and ate well.  I’m so glad we did.  Little did we know that we would be eating egg sandwiches for breakfast, lunch and dinner the following three days!

Pictures of life in Sevare, the town right near Mopti where I currently live.   Timbuktu tomorrow!

Relaxing at my place

Pizza at the Ambedjele Hotel in Sevare

Oh the people you meet when traveling in places like Mali 🙂 It's half the fun. Pictured is a quirky French band performing while we were eating dinner at a small restaurant in Sevare.

Drinking Guinness and watching French band

Day 3: Mali – Dogon Country

Mali is home to a relatively stark and flat landscape.  In the center of the country however, large majestic canyons dot an area of 100 miles.  This area is popularly known as Dogon Country, or Pays Dogon in French, since the Dogon people have settled into villages along its edge. There are tens if not hundreds of villages that line the plateau, each one as picturesque as the other.

The history of how the Dogon arrived to settle along the harsh terrain of the plateau is  questionable.  Moreover, they were not its original inhabitants.  They were greeted by the Tellum people, who the Dogon believe, were magical creatures with super powers.   The Tellum people lived hundreds of feet high inthe steep cliffsides, settling into small cave-like dwellings.  With no ropes or ladders, the Dogon believe the Tellum could fly. All we know now is that the Tellum are no longer here.  They fled.  No one knows why.  But their steep cave dwellings can still be seen today, and it took our breath away when we saw them lining the top of the plateau.  HOW did the Tellum get up there?  COULD they really fly?  WERE they aliens, as has been suggested?

Here are some photos of us hiking down to a few Dogon villages.  It was definitely one of the highlights of the trip.

Overlooking the savannah near Sanga village, on the top of the plateau, about to hike down

Climbing down a Dogon ladder to reach a village

Hiking down to Ireli Village - We had no idea of the view we were about to see, pictured below

Dogon homes at the bottom, hundreds of Tellum dwellings in the cliffside - Ireli village

Closer view of the Tellum dwellings

Chilling with village elders in front of their town hall 'toguna' (Females are NOT allowed inside)

Side view of the Toguna

Upon arriving in the village, we were greeted with a warm bowl of ... millet beer.

Day 1: Mali – Bamako, Segou, Djenne

My boyfriend and his brother arrived in Bamako on the morning of  Saturday, January 3rd.  We had just enough time that day to go to the National Museum and to a beautiful lookout point before my brother arrived later that night

Point G – overlooking Bamako

Upon waking up on Sunday morning, and getting ready for the two- week trek through the desert, the three guys decided they wanted to play a game of flag football with some of my friends at the embassy. So before we set off for the 8 hour drive to Djenne, we played some ball with other expats in Bamako.  Unfortunately, no cameras were allowed.

(Imaginary picture of the boys playing flag football)

On the way up to Djenne we stopped for lunch in Segou at a riverside restaurant, making it the second time we saw the Niger River this trip.

La Paillote restaurant terrace in Segou

Right before we entered Djenne, we crossed the Niger River for the third time that day, and had a momentary flash of panic as the bus in front of us got stuck in the river mud as it was driving off the ferry tarmac.

Pushing an overstuffed bus out of the river mud

We arrived in Djenne an hour after nightfall.  Unfortunately, there were no rooms available forcing us to set up our tents on the roof of the Djenne campement.  Fortunately, waking up to an aeriel view of the magical sandcastle city of Djenne was hardly a consolation prize.

Camping out on the Djenne Campement rooftop

We hired a guide and took a walking tour of Djenne on Monday morning –  the weekly market day.   Despite it being their first times in Mali and West Africa, the brothers adjusted rather well to the hustle and bustle of the city and even managed to make some new friends right away.

Brothers and their new fans/friends

More on Djenne tomorrow…

We’re not normal

Most people that go to Timbuktu….go to Timbuktu and BACK.  We, on the other hand, went to Timbuktu and on, and on, and on, and then BACK.

Going from the Sahara desert to the tropical coast of Benin within a week was one heck of a trip, but it was worth it.  Despite a few mishaps and warnings (dodging Tuareg grenades in Gao, Mali / entering Benin without a visa / etc)., we remained in high spirits and unscathed the whole way through.  We rode camels in the desert, ran with giraffes in the Savannah, and hiked through cliff villages in the hills. It was truly a first rate adventure and I am seriously depressed it’s over (and that the boys are gone).  Before I go into details and post photos of the various segments of our journey, below is a map of West Africa and of the route we followed from Bamako, Mali all the way to Cotonou, Benin, covering over 2,500 kilometers.

T-1 Swimming on Land

That’s right.  Only ONE MORE DAY until my boyfriend, his brother and my brother arrive for a action-filled jam-packed two week visit I’ve nicknamed, “Swimming on Land.”  That is because we will literally be following the legendary Niger River by car from Bamako, Mali all the way to Benin (stopping in Segou, Mali | Djenne, Mali | Mopti, Mali | Timbuktu, Mali | Gao, Mali | Niamey, Niger | Malanville, Benin + an overnight in Abidjan, Cote d’Ivoire).  My boyfriend was also a Peace Corps volunteer, in Benin, and we will be visiting his village along the way.  We plan to hike, to swim, to follow desert elephants, to spot bush giraffes, to sleep on Dogon rooftops and perhaps even to duneboard on the desert hills.

The segment of our trip to Timbuktu coincides with the Festival in the Desert – a three-day  concert, 15 miles outside of Timbuktu, frequented by hundreds if not thousands of Malians and international tourists coming to see famous African and Western bands perform, at the same time sleeping in Toureg tents and riding camels.  This fesitval is supposed to be amazing, however long ago, I opted NOT to go because I am not a big fan of hoopla and crowds.  I thought going to Timbuktu was enough.  (C’mon, Timbuktu!?  I cannot wait to get my body there.  Having that stamp in my passport will finally SOLIDIFY my status as a real world traveler.  It will be as priceless to me, a traveler, as an Olympic gold medal may be to an athlete. ).

Although we are NOT going to the festival, I am following some travel warnings issued FOR the festival nonetheless.  If  I feel like our safety is ever at risk (well more of a risk that it is normally) I have a PLAN B where we would scratch Timbuktu and go through Burkina Faso, the country, to get to Niger instead.  😦  I would love to see Burkina Faso but I really don’t want to give up on my dream of going to Timbuktu.  But don’t worry, safety first.

I plan to check in with you all every few days ago, and hopefully, will find a connection strong enough for me to post some stories along the way.  Just want to let you all know, access to the internet will be intermittent, but hold in there, I promise some fabulous photos and hopefully good stories at the end!

On another note, this is my 100th post!!!  Wow, I cannot believe I’ve kept this up but I am glad I did.  Thank you for being faithful readers, I love your comments and appreciate your input!  If you’ve been a lurker until now, I would LOVE if you could de-lurk and identify yourself.  You can make up your name if you want, you can be Jane, John and Mohammed, that’s up to you.  But I would love to know how you came across my blog and anything more about you.  A tout a l’heure!

“Lorraine of Arabia”

The color of the turban I chose reflects the naivety I possessed regarding the situation.

When I was first asked to accompany the second team to the North-East desert region of Mali (500 km PAST Timbuktu), I was thrilled.  Sure, I had read about the State department warnings of the region insinuating Al Qaeda activity, and also was privy to many stories of NGO car high-jackings through the expat grapevine in Bamako.  Just months ago, I forwarded a BBC story about four French tourists being taken hostage in the area to my Peace Corps friends, and yet, despite all this, I leaped with both feet forward without thinking, thrilled at the possibility of exploring and working in the desert abyss.
Just as naïve as I had been when I joined the Peace Corps 5 years ago in Senegal, when I packed white sundresses hoping to look like Kim Basinger from “Out of Africa,” this time I chose a white turban to wear out in the desert, subconsciously hoping to reenact scenes from “Lawrence of Arabia”.  I should have known that within minutes of entering the desert winds, my turban would turn the color of the Sahara.
Furthermore, there were several red flags just days preceding the trip.   My supervisor decided to leave our NGO car at the military base in the nearest town for protection, instead renting an old crickety SUV for the desert to pass by unnoticed by the “bandits.”
All wrapped up like a mummy, I dove into the desert Sunday morning immediately tackling sand dunes, dust storms, and extreme heat within minutes.  Our destination was a village that would take 5 hours to get too, given we were riding over sand dunes rather than paved roads.  We stopped at a village two hours in, to relax and eat, when the situation turned for the worse.  We were stopped by  the mayor who alerted our team that they should leave me there.  It was unsafe for me to go any further given recent reports of a car jacking nearby and my visibility and attraction as a foreign hostage.
A split decision was made, and I was told that I was going to stay in the village on my own for four days, at a friend’s home, while the rest of the team went on.   Before they left in a flurry, my colleague looked at me with eyes wide open and whispered in English, “Don’t go anywhere. Stay in this compound.  We’ll be back in four days.  Be careful.”
Fear finally struck me.  And with that fear, came action (also known as adrenaline).  Within minutes of the team leaving, I was on the phone (Thank God there was one in town) with staff in Bamako.  With visions of what could happen to me the following four days, I could not risk my safety an longer.  Normally, very laid back and easy going, this time I insisted on hiring a vehicle to come get me, ASAP, whatever the cost.
When the driver arrived 10 hours later, he looked at me and told me to put on long sleeves and to wrap my turban around my head….he was not kidding around.  No signs of my white skin were to be exposed.
So hear I am evacuated to the nearest town, safe and sound, breathing a HUGE sigh of relief that I am out of harm’s way.
In other news, I have SO much to write about, I don’t even know how to begin.  I have had the most amazing three weeks of work of my entire life.  I am still trying to sort out the photos, the days, the villages, the stories, and the messages that I took from this field experience.  When I get back home this weekend, I promise to begin writing.  One thing is for sure, I have definitely seen the real Mali, the good and the bad.

Playing the field

I’ve worked the past 6 weekends in a row, but I’ve never been happier being in the ‘office’.  After six strenuous weeks of planning, we are finally getting ready to go to field to begin our ‘real’ work.

Beginning this Saturday I will be going out to the field (the field=the villages where we will be implementing our development programs for the following five years).  We will be conducting an intense baseline study (evaluation) every day for the following two weeks, visiting over 40 villages and 250 households, interviewing each one.  

My last two days working were spent testing the evaluation tools we developed (questionnaires in local languages) in two nearby villages.  It was my first time spending a prolonged stint in a village since I left the Peace Corps, and I was in Heaven.  I had a smile on my face both days.  I can’t wait to get to the field. 

As a result, I will be out in the boonies for two weeks, without access to internet.  In the field, I will be visiting villages every single day helping compile all the questionnaires we conduct and will analyze the data in a team every night.  It’s going to be intense.  But I promise, I’ll have lots of stories and photos when I get back.  

Here are some pictures of the village we were in the last two days and of us testing our tools. 

View of the Fulani village we were working in

 

The village mosque

The village town hall

Introducing our project to the village community. I’m in the back

The introduction meeting in the town hall

Sleeping baby in the meeting

The Africa Packing List (they don’t tell you about)

Moving to Mali was my third time moving to West Africa.  As a result, I felt like I knew exactly what I should and should not pack.  For the most part, I packed well but I’ve already realized some things I wish I had brought.  This is the unconventional packing list for those who are moving to (or want to send care packages to people in) countries where there are no McDonalds.

1. Your pillow! Many countries have variations of our pillows. Some are about 1 feet wide, some are about 1 inch thick. Others are filled with rice beans, and others are made of Styrofoam. Believe me, it is worth it to smush your pillow into your knapsack and you will never regret it!

2.  Ranch and Italian dressing packets. Seriously, it will make the five national dishes you eat weekly over and over again so much more appetizing and you’ll look forward to the days when you can cook on your own. Most importantly, you will make friends…FAST. Easy to pack and no weight at all.

3. A subscription to the Economist or Elle. (Wait until you get a PO Box).These are a couple of the only magazines that will deliver the magazine either weekly or monthly to your boonedock post office. Plus, many of the countries currently serving volunteers have tailors that make clothes in lieu of ready made clothes stores. It is great to have pictures of new trends that your tailor can replicate in the national country’s fabric!

4.  A Skype phone. This is only if you have wi-fi or high speed Internet.  Buy the phone on the Internet and make sure MAC users get one compatible.  I bought a SkypeOut number which is basically a Chicago phone number…so when I hook up my skype phone to my computer, I have unlimited ANY U.S.A number for $4 a month.  It’s sick.

5.  Laptop cooler. Overheating is frequent.  Most definitely pack a laptop cooler and keep it underneath your laptop at all times. (Also, don’t forget things like a keyboard and screen cover to protect laptop from dust and bugs entering).

6.  iPod accessories. Including one that connects to FM transmitter radios. There is nothing better than playing your ipod in long car rides in the bush as well as in your hut or home!

7.  Seasonings. Specifically…taco seasoning packets, Parmesan cheese, All purpose seasoning salt, dill, gravy mix, and anything else you enjoy.

8.  SHEETS!  I knew I should have packed these…but I didn’t.   100% cotton sheets here are costly, over a $100.  The cheap sheets are from China and make you feel like you have bed bugs; lots of itching and scratching.  I know it’s heavy, but do yourself a favor and bring a full size sheet set.

9.  A photo flipbook. Forget about individual photos…Make yourself a flipbook on http://www.shutterfly.com or other photo networks and add photos of your family, your city, your home, (even rooms like kitchens are a big hit), friends, etc.  You can look at this anytime as it is easy to transport but more importantly your friends abroad will love looking through this and asking questions.

10.  DVD Television Series. You can only watch a movie so many times…but if you bring tv series, you can watch them over and over again.  They usually 30 mins and just long enough to put you to sleep.

11.  220 volt hair straightener. In West Africa, women are notorious for dressing well and looking put together (hair, jewelery, henna, shoes, purse, etc) whenever they go out.  Why would we do any less?  This flat iron I got from http://www.folica.com works like a dream here, just as good as my CHI bac home. Just make sure you get the appropriate plug letter.

12. Bug tent from REI. HANDS DOWN, the best item I had in the Peace Corps.  BUY IT NOW.  It folds up into a small bag, and pops up within a minute.  I used this a million times when traveling either at hotels or peoples homes.  I just put a mattress inside, and can sleep wherever I want. Its usually to hot to sleep indoors so many people sleep on their roofs.  However then you must find a way to hook up a mosquito net which undoubtedly will come undone at night.

13.  Stickers. If you MUST bring something to pass out to kids and passerby (which I do not personally recommend unless you have developed relationships with people), then I would advise bringing stickers rather than candy or money.  Light, cheap and come in packs of hundreds.

14.  Hair Dye.  You can always go local and henna your hair, making the outcome fire engine red.  But if you plan to color your tresses, bring some boxes of dye with you.

15.  Pens.  Really.  West Africa doesn’t have as big a selection of office supplies as your nearest Staples.  Actually, most of West Africa has ONE kind of blue pen, ONE kind of red pen, and ONE kind of notebook.  I miss my American college ruled paper and seamlessly flowing ink pens.  Be prepared to work, and bring what you work with best.

For the most part, this list could also be a Peace Corps packing list (sauf the electrical appliances).

Do you have any other suggestions?

Click here to read my latest post about living in West Africa.

Dr. Travel

I walked out of my travel doctor’s office last week with 4 new Band-Aids, 500 less dollars, and a chockfull of “travel advice.” The $150 consultation fee included “expert” country-specific medical, mental and living advice. When I told him where I was heading, Mali,  he inconspiculously excused himself only to return 10 minutes later with many printed pages of fresh internet research. For the following 45 minutes, Dr. Travel recited information he found on Google just minutes before.  It was nothing I hadn’t heard before and seems to be the generic “helpful” advice I’ve gotten many times before.  I can sum up in one sentence, “Don’t do, eat, drink anything (or anyone).” Thank Dr. That was helpful.

Let’s be realistic.  I will have to ‘do’ something.  So in the spirit of helping, I’d like to add some additional medical, mental and living advice that I learned on my own, that isn’t written in any google search. This is not a medical opinion but just some travel tips others forget to mention that saved me and my sanity many times the last time.  

1. Bring CIPRO antibiotic and lots of it. Don’t really know what it is…but I do know that it immediately cures you of whatever intestinal/stomach/nausea problem you have that day.
2. Pack your pillow. Pillows in Africa are made of styrophone. Sinking into your soft, plush pillow after a long day out will literally wash your worries away (temporarily).
3. Bring your laptop and buy internet service. C’mon, we are American. We LOVE access and convenience. So even though you are in the boonies, stay connected in cyber space. You’ll have access to your friends and family and can google your own travel medical advice any time without paying a $150 consultation fee.
4. Greet and remain friendly with your neighbors, and anyone else that you see everyday. They will get your back if you ever find yourself in a rut. Be friendly and go out of your way to maintain a cordial relationship with them.
5. Pack lots of ranch packets. Even if you are eating sterilized, bleached, packaged foods, it will taste a lot better with the BEST condiment in the world!
6. And most importantly, don’t rid yourself of things that make you feel better at home. If you like playing the guitar, just bring it! If you like feeling pampered, bring your pedicure set. If you indulge in gossip magazines, get a subscription (by the way, Elle Magazine and the Economist deliver to any post office in the world)!

This is not your typical Africa blog…

If you are looking for a blog rich in candid first impressions, frenzied cultural frustrations, emotional life realizations and gory bowel movements, you may be better off searching for my first blog. That blog was written when I was serving in the Peace Corps in Senegal a few years ago on mismatched keyboards with intermittent internet ( my poor justification for all the typos).

Since then, I’ve lived and worked in Manhattan, completed a Masters in International Development, met the man of my dreams, and acquired a truck load of fabulous shoes. Now I’m moving back to Africa, leaving Manhattan & the man (temporarily) behind, but taking the degree and the stilettos with me.

Please note: Most of my stories in Mali will be kept personal, written in my own journal or to friends. I will try only to document my life here, on the surface, so you all have a better idea of how I am living. It may be a little surfaced, but that is all I am meant to be. Please keep in mind that I will not delve into philosophical and psychological banter. Merci.