Life’s a Beach

There is very little to do in Monrovia – a city that lost everything during Liberia’s 14 year civil war that just ended in 2004.  During those fourteen years, brutal fighting was rampant in the countryside where sons killed their mothers, raped their neighbors, mutilated their cousins, and castrated their fathers.  Rural folk fled to Monrovia and as a result, a city that was designed for only 250,000 people became home to over a million of internally displaced persons.  People looted every building imaginable so over 14 years, there was no education AT ALL or government progress since squatters were living and fighting in government buildings.  This in a city that used to be called “New York of West Africa” in its heyday, perhaps due to its  historical significance to America. 

Currently, there is no running water or an electrical grid in the whole city.  Few latrines, 90% unemployment and appalling health statistics.  Life is a bit—beach, atleast on Sundays  it is.

Despite its struggles, Liberia is an incredibly rich country resources.  Thousands of miles of pristine coastline, diamonds, rubber, timber, gold – you name it it’s here.  So in an effort to add to the local economy revenue, I didn’t mind sipping on cold beers last Sunday at the beach with my colleagues.

 

I learned that a half acre of beachfront land costs about $6,000. 

The owner of  BET (Black Entertainment) is also supporting and investing in Liberia before the mobs come.  He just opened up Monrovia’s finest hotel a few months ago. Come before its all taken!

 

On a similar but different note, have I mentioned how strange it is to not only be living and working in the same place with all your colleagues?  I felt a tad strange stripping to my bathing suit in front of my supervisor, but do as the Romans do I suppose.

Out of Touch

OMG, this is the first country I’ve been too where I don’t have access to w0fi 24/7 and skype – and frankly its too much for me.  How did I do Peace Corps again? I seriously feel like my limbs have been cut off, I feel like I am becoming estranged from my family, my friends, my life- aah!

On another note, people at work have been incredibly nice and I’ve had NUMEROUS party invitations…so many in fact, that I am on my way to my 3rd dinner tonight!  First BBQ started at 4, second dinner at 6, and now going out friends at 9:30.  I guess that’s what happens in places where there is no social infrastructure – you rely on one another.  Just wanted to check in because I feel like I am out of it!  TTYS!

Meeting Madame President

For an African enthusiast like me, meeting President Ellen Johnson-Sirleaf of Liberia yesterday was one of the highlights of my life.  She is the only female President in Africa, and one of the few female  Heads of State in the world.  Democratically elected in 2005, in a country just coming out of 14 years of brutal war, she ushered in a period of new hope in Liberia.  Recently named one of the top 50 most influential women, she ranked higher than Oprah – so clearly she is one powerful figure.

When I was ushered into a vehicle to attend an event yesterday, I thought the highlight would be the refreshments.  But when I realized the President would be there and saw EJS’s motorcade pull up my palms got clammy and my heart started pounding.  This was only further amplified when I realized she was sitting 6 feet away from me.  To add to the excitement, there was a female group  of students singing passionate gospel during the event.  In a country where over 50% of girls under 18 have been pregnant (most of them through rape), their parents murdered by their brothers, and all of them without any formal education for 15 years, the main refrain of their gospel song, “We still have joy, after all we’ve been through, we still have joy, we still have joy” brought tears rolling down my face.

Loving Liberia~

It’s a Small World After All

The more I travel in Africa, the smaller the world gets.    As I was sitting in on our morning meeting today, my colleague promised, “I bet you run into someone you know here in Monrovia.”  I replied, “Actually I already know of two people working here who I plan on meeting up with,” to which he replied, “There will be someone else you weren’t expecting – trust me, everyone is in Liberia.”

I accepted a dinner invitation with a colleague whom I met in DC months ago.  She told me she was meeting some friends from an NGO for dinner at the swanky sushi restaurant across the street from my apartment – perfect.  As we were walking up to the table of four, I saw J, my Peace Corps friend from Senegal and we nearly rolled on the floor crying/laughing.  I hadn’t seen her in 3 years!  Moreover, she has refused to join Facebook so I haven’t gotten any updates on her although I always wondered.  I was actually the first Peace Corps volunteer she met in Senegal.  I had been there a year when she started training and was sent to my village for a “demystification” visit days upon her arrival.  I like to think I showed her the ropes, you know…how to eat with your right hand, pee in the bush and how to pick the best tailor to make j-crew like dresses with African fabric.

We just spent the last two hours reminisching and gossiping, err…catching up on everyone from Peace Corps Senegal.  It’s amazing how comfortable I feel here, and how many people I know, not having ever been here before.  Like I said in Mali, Peace Corps was the most exclusive club I’ve ever been in – way better than any social club – and the one that keeps on giving and whose network I continually use.

Made it to Monrovia!

I made it safe and sound in Monrovia.  Immediately upon landing I was greeted by a sign with my name on it and ushered out of the airport to the safety of the white SUV.  The drive from the airport to the city was over an hour and the scene looked very familiar to me, however the differences are obvious.  First, it is much greener than Senegal or Mali, totally lush – hundreds of palm trees after another.  Second, the city is dotted with enormous, unfinished and decapitated buildings from the civil war.  Finally, one can’t go 5 miles without seeing a UNMIL camp – the UN Peacekeepers commissioned here to ensure peace since the war.

I was blown away when I was dropped off at my apartment for the month.  Beachfront, 4 bedrooms with bathrooms, TV, DVD, washer dryer, A/C, etc….  Nice.  Within 5 minutes, I had to go out back to check out the crashing waves, and as soon as I did, the door slammed shut behind me and I got locked out 🙂  Thankfully, a neighbor was home and she called the security people up who came with an extra set of keys an hour later.  I knew the trip couldn’t be totally stress-free.  The internet in my place hasn’t been set up yet so I am across the street at a beautiful hotel, wet with sweat from the humidity, drinking an overpriced beer but  listening to the waves crash which makes it all worth it.

It won’t all be so pleasant – I was given a binder with my name on it with a copy of my jam packed schedule for the month beginning tomorrow morning at 7:30am.  So, I’m off to prepare.  More tomorrow!

MIA

Hi All, I know I’ve been MIA, but believe me its for good reason – I am head over heels in love with my crazy, busy job.  I work all the time and love every minute of it – but as a result not only have little time to blog, but have little to write about.

But it occurred to me to start again, since I am en route back to Africa….  I am sitting in the Brussels airport about to depart to Liberia.  This is a work trip and I will be there for about four weeks.  Although I expect to be working in an office nonstop in Monrovia, hopefully I’ll leave the confines enough to share some insight and stories into the culture.

More from Monrovia later!