The color of the turban I chose reflects the naivety I possessed regarding the situation.
When I was first asked to accompany the second team to the North-East desert region of Mali (500 km PAST Timbuktu), I was thrilled. Sure, I had read about the State department warnings of the region insinuating Al Qaeda activity, and also was privy to many stories of NGO car high-jackings through the expat grapevine in Bamako. Just months ago, I forwarded a BBC story about four French tourists being taken hostage in the area to my Peace Corps friends, and yet, despite all this, I leaped with both feet forward without thinking, thrilled at the possibility of exploring and working in the desert abyss.
Just as naïve as I had been when I joined the Peace Corps 5 years ago in Senegal, when I packed white sundresses hoping to look like Kim Basinger from “Out of Africa,” this time I chose a white turban to wear out in the desert, subconsciously hoping to reenact scenes from “Lawrence of Arabia”. I should have known that within minutes of entering the desert winds, my turban would turn the color of the Sahara.
Furthermore, there were several red flags just days preceding the trip. My supervisor decided to leave our NGO car at the military base in the nearest town for protection, instead renting an old crickety SUV for the desert to pass by unnoticed by the “bandits.”
All wrapped up like a mummy, I dove into the desert Sunday morning immediately tackling sand dunes, dust storms, and extreme heat within minutes. Our destination was a village that would take 5 hours to get too, given we were riding over sand dunes rather than paved roads. We stopped at a village two hours in, to relax and eat, when the situation turned for the worse. We were stopped by the mayor who alerted our team that they should leave me there. It was unsafe for me to go any further given recent reports of a car jacking nearby and my visibility and attraction as a foreign hostage.
A split decision was made, and I was told that I was going to stay in the village on my own for four days, at a friend’s home, while the rest of the team went on. Before they left in a flurry, my colleague looked at me with eyes wide open and whispered in English, “Don’t go anywhere. Stay in this compound. We’ll be back in four days. Be careful.”
Fear finally struck me. And with that fear, came action (also known as adrenaline). Within minutes of the team leaving, I was on the phone (Thank God there was one in town) with staff in Bamako. With visions of what could happen to me the following four days, I could not risk my safety an longer. Normally, very laid back and easy going, this time I insisted on hiring a vehicle to come get me, ASAP, whatever the cost.
When the driver arrived 10 hours later, he looked at me and told me to put on long sleeves and to wrap my turban around my head….he was not kidding around. No signs of my white skin were to be exposed.
So hear I am evacuated to the nearest town, safe and sound, breathing a HUGE sigh of relief that I am out of harm’s way.
In other news, I have SO much to write about, I don’t even know how to begin. I have had the most amazing three weeks of work of my entire life. I am still trying to sort out the photos, the days, the villages, the stories, and the messages that I took from this field experience. When I get back home this weekend, I promise to begin writing. One thing is for sure, I have definitely seen the real Mali, the good and the bad.
15 responses to ““Lorraine of Arabia””![Subscribe to comments](https://s0.wp.com/wp-content/themes/pub/dark-wood/images/comments_rss.png)
OHmommy
November 4th, 2008 at 12:47
Wow…. I can’t even imagine what you must have felt. Glad you are okay. Glad you are back. And now… tell us everything.
dziadek
November 4th, 2008 at 13:04
Kasienko, Dobrze ze piszesz, strasznie sie zaczelem niepokoic ,bo tez czytalem ze tam kiedys porwali.Badza bardzo ostrozna .Czy to ty na zdjeciu???
Denise
November 4th, 2008 at 13:19
Wow!!! is all I can possibly say. I can’t even imagine what it must have been like. We are so fortunate you share your stories with us. Your absence was felt. I am on pins an dneedles to hear your stories. I just wish you weren’t in peril in order to write your blog! Glad you are safe now!!!
Megryansmom
November 4th, 2008 at 13:34
I’m glad you are safe, you’re so very brave. Looking forward to hearing more. God bless.
Jo
November 4th, 2008 at 13:48
Cholera! Uwazaj Babo!
Blessings From Above
November 4th, 2008 at 16:23
I can not even begin to imagine the fear you must of felt. I am so glad that you are safe. Can’t wait to hear all about your adventures!
Crystal D
November 4th, 2008 at 17:17
You have been on my mind the past couple of days. I was beginning to get worried since we had not heard from you lately. My goodness, I was right to be worried. I am so glad you are safe.
I can’t wait to hear what other exciting stories you have to share.
jolyn
November 5th, 2008 at 03:54
You are soooo brave. And what an adventure. (Now that you’re safe.) So looking forward to hearing more. Glad everything turned out okay for your safety, that your comrades were wise, that you were insistent…
shannon
November 5th, 2008 at 07:01
Scary! I am glad you are safe and sound and i look forward to hearing more about Mali. Keep up the good work.
Jeanne A
November 5th, 2008 at 12:30
Can’t wait to read all about it. Having grown up in Africa–the other side–I read blogs like yours because they call to me.
When all my friends are becoming grandparents I’m still busy raising my 5 adopted kids and keep sane by reading about people like you, who are living the life I thought would be mine.
There was an article about older people doing peace corps—-if this parenting think doesn’t kill me, perhaps I can live in Africa again some day.
So glad that you’re safe.
Robin
November 5th, 2008 at 20:35
I am so glad to hear that you made it back safe. Good for you to be assertive. I can’t wait for the pictures and stories!
Katherine Long
November 5th, 2008 at 22:52
Holy smokes Kash! Unreal- can not read to read about your experiences…want to see pics with the Turban looking not so white too 🙂
Kate
November 6th, 2008 at 15:46
I am so glad you are back safe and sound and ready to regale us with your tales. I am all ears.
Nina
November 6th, 2008 at 18:09
yikes! kash, this story is scary. to think you are in a relatively safe country and still have to worry about that. it must be really rough out there in the desert. i’m happy to hear that you are ok now. but stay vigilant out there! bisous!
Paula
November 7th, 2008 at 01:30
Oh, Kash…I’m glad you’re safe and sound. Looking forward to reading the next installment! Miss you!!!