Just as programming in villages has unanticipated results, hiring a French teacher does as well.
I joined the Peace Corps 5 years ago because I always left vacations on sad notes. It was never enough time to see everything, never enough time to meet everyone, and just as I would begin to learn and pick up words and cultural tidbits, it was time to leave. I longed for an experience that would allow me to “walk in someone else’s shoes” and really become part of a fascinating culture so different from my own (fascinating) culture.
This was accomplished in the Peace Corps. I truly feel I am part “Serer” (my Senegalese ethnicity). I was bestowed a Serer name by the chief, ate and cooked the food, spoke the language(s), plowed the fields, performed the dances, and knew the riddles. I relished every new detail I learned throughout my two years. However, while I was serving, I always imagined how perfect life would be if I could be one with the culture AND have my own house, A/C, Diet Coke, internet, etc π
So here I am 5 years later with the latter in Mali. I definitely am grateful for all the amenities I have in my current experience and truly love the type of work I am doing. However, I have been missing out on all those things I loved in the Peace Corps because of my independence and access to convenience.
I realized this just a few hours ago when I stepped into my tutor’s home. I drove through sandy, sandcastle like streets to get to his house.
The only direction I received was “Get to the soccer field in town.” As promised, he was there to then lead me to his house. Upon arrival, dozens of beautiful children came running out shouting warm welcomes. His wife with one child on her back and the other feeding on her front, hurried to bring me a cold soft drink and take my bag.
Meanwhile, ridiculously beautiful women began walking past us, eying me conspicuously, on their way home from the market looking like rainbows in the desert wearing vibrant colorful garments, their hair decadently strewn with multi-colored beads, large red and gold jewelery pierced in their ears and noses, their hands hennaed in intricate designs, and their mouths tattoed in a dark shade of black accentuating their white teeth. I gasped and had that, “OMG, I am in Africa” moment I used to get when I’d see a ritual performed, pass a warthog on my jog, or participate in a village drumming dance. You don’t see this in the office. These women are SPECTACULAR. I need to show you guys…but how do you get the audacity to ask them to take their photos? Here are others’ photos of similar women in Mopti.
After two hours of passe compose my tutor insisted I stay for dinner. There, along with 20 other “family” members I ate beans and meat my hand and discussed the differences between Senegalese and Malian cultures.
The best part came when I asked him his last name which he replied was”Ba,” and happening to be familiar with that name from Senegal, I commented “Tu dois aimer du lait! (You must like milk!).” There was a pause….and then the whole room erupted in laughter saying “You really know us! You know our culture. You are really African.”
I love that all it takes is a joke to receive acceptance here. I love that I have a new African host family in Mali.
There is a saying, “You go to East Africa for the animals, to West Africa for the people.”
The people here truly are rainbows in the desert.
11 responses to “Rainbows in the Desert”
haniaski
August 29th, 2008 at 13:52
Very nice post.
I love those photos.
Miss u π
Jill
August 29th, 2008 at 14:39
Wow… The experiences you’ve had are amazing. I would love to see the photos of the french tutor’s house and the family that welcomed you with open arms. It’s stuff like this that makes going there entirely worth it.
Momma Mo'
August 29th, 2008 at 15:08
wow!! beautiful!! Truly, truly beautiful!
jolyn
August 29th, 2008 at 15:13
Beautiful post. Looking forward to more photos that I am sure you will be able to take soon.
Had never heard that saying before about West and East Africa … I must say, I remember the people in Tanzania being pretty amazing. Especially the Masai — one of those powerful tribes that its amazingly intelligent members relate to even if they left the village itself…I thought it was sad that some people’s sole African experience was going on a safari.
Hopefully someday I will be able to experience the people of West Africa myself. Would love to hear more about your Peace Corps experience in this blog as well as it comes up!
Kate
August 29th, 2008 at 15:43
Love the post and the insight, your photos are beautiful. I think that Jolyn covered my comments on the people of East Africa. Although, I certainly left without the type of appreciation that you have for sure.
iamkash
August 29th, 2008 at 17:40
I should have mentioned I’ve never been to East Africa so I’d have to travel more to compare, but from what I have heard people are wonderful across the board. But it is a saying I’ve heard before…I think more because tourists to got to East Africa FOR the animals.
Crystal D
August 29th, 2008 at 17:53
And doesn’t family make it easier to be anywhere?!? I am sure this family enjoyed having you around as much as you enjoyed being there. What a wonderful experience for their kids to get to be around you.
And how beautiful the women must look. It all seems so enchanted.
ohmommy
August 29th, 2008 at 21:52
Yay for you tutor. You always seem to stumble across the nicest people. π
Kate
August 30th, 2008 at 07:44
Kash,
I was just teasing you π And I think you are right, people go to East Africa for the animals and natural beauty (and I think the people and culture are an amazing surprise to most) while I agree, the draw to West Africa is the people and culture and history.
Kate
August 30th, 2008 at 07:46
PS- those earrings are the stilettos of Africa for sure!
ng08
August 30th, 2008 at 14:21
Nicee! I travelled West too last year, I went to Burkina Faso and it was an amazing experience, the people are truely amazing…enjoy:)