We had planned driving from Gao, Mali to Niamey, Niger months ago My brother purchased his return ticket to the States from Niamey so we had a limited amount of time to make it there by Saturday, January 10th. For months, I researched the road extensively online through people’s blogs and in person, inquiring about its safety. What I found was that it is, physically, extremely safe. It had just been paved a year ago and the trip, without stops, should only take 4 hours. However, just weeks before we were to drive that road, a Canadian diplomat’s car was hijacked and he kidnapped by Tuareg rebels on the same road. In addition, there were heightened security alerts the embassy had been sending out since December regarding random grenade attacks in Gao. Needless to say, I was worried.
After a team meeting, it was decided we would take the road anyway (instead of going through Burkina Faso). From what we could decipher, tourists were not being targeted by Tuaregs…. rather it was military officials or diplomats that worked with Tuareg conflict resolution. We took our chances and fortunately, got to Niamey (the capital of Niger) unscathed, albeit it took us 8 hours instead of the estimated 4. Upon arrival, however, I thanked God for delivering us there safely.
Niamey was lovely. Although still West African in ambiance (hustle and bustle, hundreds of scents, poverty, etc), it was much more maneagable and calm. We saw several gorgeous sunsets on the banks of the Niger River and galloped with wild giraffes just an hour outside town. It was sad to see my brother go, as it symbolized the end of one journey, but my boyfriend and I still had a week ahead of us in Benin. A week that would result in one of the biggest surprises of my life!
Regarding safety on the Gao-Niamey road, it came to my attention this week, that four European tourists were kidnapped just a couple of weeks after we were there! Believe me, the news knocked the wind out of me. I would like to pay it forward and inform all those planning on traveling this road to take the Burkina Faso road instead. Although I found the road safe and the military personnel at the checkpoints very friendly, the stretches between villages were vast and long without seeing another car in sight. So be careful and if you can, go through Burkina instead.
Without further ado, some pictures of Niamey, Niger.
Getting close to the giraffes
Peek-a-boo
Sunset in Niamey
Filed under: travel | Tagged: africa, giraffes niger, niamey, niger, niger river, travel africa
Stumble It!
I can’t wait to hear about this SURPRISE! Is it? Could it be? Ok ok I’ll wait.
Glad u got there safely. Great photos!
Wow… beautiful photos and happy ending to the tourist story. But be careful!! Take the safe road next time. You’re making my heart pound with stories of kidnappings and military personnel.
Looking forward to the next installment…
Ahh, I just LOVE that picture of the giraffe. How beautiful! You’re far more hardcore than I am…I used to like to think I could join the Peace Corps, but it’s just too big of a time commitment and I’m a bit fickle, too =)
But I love hearing about your time in Africa!
I have been to Niger two times, I never seen any Giraffes and have been to most of the major cities. Where did you see Giraffes? Thanks from Andy of HoboTraveler.com Travel Blog
They roam near the town of Koure, Niger…about 60 km south of Niamey on the paved road. There is a legitimate tourist office off the road in Koure where you stop and may hire a guide to help you navigate in the bush to find them (and where you pay a tourist tax to support the organization). They happened to be roaming just a few km off the road into the bush while we were there. We hired a random small Niamey taxi for about 30,000 CFA in total for the morning excursion. Our guide told us that just 10 years ago they were close to extinction, numbering around 30. Then efforts were made to save them and the new tourist bureau was set up, and they currently number over 200. We saw a group of about a dozen grazing.
Thank you, this seems reasonable that the government has a refuge or area where there are Giraffes. I came by road from Benin, then was in Dosso, therefore I believe I pass by bus to Niamey close to there, it may have been by them Renault Station wagons. I do not pay attention well to Tourist offices, so easy for me to miss, I met a lot of Peace Corps touring around in Niger, however most of the time alone. Blog post on Dosso, Niger
Yes, it’s easy to miss. I am not sure if it’ a refuge area. They were literally grazing amongst crop fields and from what I heard sometimes are more than 50 km en brousse. We got lucky the day we came by. Next time you are there, definitely take a look, it’s worth it!
Thanks, I will be in the DRC, and hopefully work my way across Nigeria towards there. There is a group called Eden Foundation Working on Malnutrition, in Tanout, but live in Maradi, Joseph is a great person to explain Niger to you. I am amazed you are online enough to reply to comments, Niger is a difficult country. I have traveled for over 10 years, so know a lot of countries.
C’est Bon
Your travels leave me breathless. Are you trying to scare me?
The world is safe enough, I am not going to say driving a vehicle or getting guides is safe, but generally the world is ok. If you are in Africa, you are already braver than 99.99 percent of other travelers, so pat yourself on the back, you are doing great.
Wow!
Oh my goodness, I have gotten so far behind on my google reader and how I have missed reading about your adventures! I am catching up now and holy cow so scary about the kidnapping, so glad you traveled unharmed.